So, I just wrapped up the drip acclimation…bucket water was at 1.024/25, close enough. Hand moved the fish into the breeder net and watched it for a minute or two. The fish is PRISTINE, not a mark on it. It brushed up against the smaller BTAs (Bubble Tip Anemones) and showed no signs of getting stung (i.e. no sticky tentacles observed). No heavy breating, in every aspect acting like a healthy clownfish. I want to say that the entire acclimation process took around 2.5 to 3 hours to go from 1.012 to 1.025 on a drip. Water in the bucket was significantly cooler by a couple degrees, even after placing the drip bucket on a styrofoam box lid to insulate it from the ground. I have kept the room lights on to allow the fish a little while to adjust to its new surroundings.
So as promised in my prior post, here’s some pictures relevant to this evening’s events.
The future net breeder home of the Lightning Maroon
Now, I know some folks see that picture and are taken aback. Really? Isn’t such a small confined space cruel? Well, ask my other clowns…
Can you see the Sumatran Fire Clown?
Yup, that's the "spare", smallest of 3 Sumatran Fire Clownfish (Amphiprion ephippium) living in a breeder net. The larger 2 have free roam of the same tank.
Amphiprion peridariaon "Vanuatu", yes, Pink Skunks, living in a breeder net...sort of...
So yeah, those Pink Skunks. Birthday present from my inlaws from the Diver’s Den on LiveAquaria.com. I had sold the Ocellaris pair that lived in this reef prior, so I knew I had a spot for clowns and they wanted to get me some “nice” clownfish. Long story short, the reef also houses a pair of Starkii Damselfish (Chysiptera starkii) and I wasn’t sure how these new additions would be treated. I also wanted to give them an anemone, but was concerned about the Dragonette Pairs in this tank becoming “lunch” for the anemone. So I threw them in the breeder net with a Red Bubble Tip Anemone Clone. Eventually, one got out more than once and honestly the seemed OK. So I pushed the net down so that the edge sits maybe 0.5 to 0.75 inches below the surface. Well, turns out the clowns (as well as the Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidatus) and Harlequin Filefish (Oxymonacanthus longirostris)) have figured out that they can come and go from the basket as they please. By night, the anemone and the clowns reside in the basket, and during they day they basically “overflow” into the tank at large. It honestly works so well for them that I hate to make changes to it.
And thus, because it’s worked well before, I hope / assume it can work well again, even if only an interim measure (I have NO desire to keep the Lightning Maroon alone in a breeder basket for any longer than I have to!). So, I’ll end this evening with 2 shots of the Lightning Maroon in acclimation and an interesting observation. When this fish stresses out, the white lightning stripes become tinged gray. You can kinda see it even in these pictures.
The Lightning Maroon Clown, Premnas biaculeatus "PNG Lightning", being drip acclimated from hyposalinity to full strength saltwater.
A closeup of the Lightning Maroon Clownfish in the acclimation bucket.
Tomorrow I’ll figure out what the heck I’m doing with the female PNG Maroon. Admittedly, I have an idea…
Yes, I did an emergency big water change, over half the tank’s running volumes. Took out 10 gallons. Why?
Well…turns out when I set up this stand of tanks, I set it up in front of a closet in the rental’s basement. Didn’t think anything of blocking the closet…we’re not using it. Well..turns out our main water shutoff is in that closet. So when the plumber showed up today to fix some plumbing issues in the rental house, guess what he needed to turn off
So..drain drain drain drain drain drain drain. Slowly move the 2 tanks on the stand across the concrete floor just enough to open the closet and narrowly reach in to turn off the valve. Then fill fill fill fill fill. But I DIDN’T think to save any of the water I was draining.
I had water mixing up already for a regular full strength water change, but I used that to quickly add some water to the top QT tank which was running with only an inch or so. Testing out Joe Lichtenbert’s observation that fish can handle rapid salinity changes in BOTH directions.
I got another bucket mixing at full strength, and decided I would use water from an existing tank to refill the Maroon’s QT tank. So….5 gallons out of the SPS tank, mixed with 5 gallons of dechlorinated tap water and in it went. Honestly, the fish seemed to like it, and it was the clearest I’ve seen this QT tank in a while now. I don’t know where the salinity is, but I suspect it’s up a little bit more now, maybe 1.012 or 1.013. I’ll have to check it later. When I tested it last night, it was around 1.011, and I added maybe a half gallon of distilled water to bring it back to 1.010-ish.
The interesting part, and why I say the fish seemed to like the water change, is that the female seemed to perk up rather quickly and started snapping at bits of food in the water as it swirled around. At least that’s what I think I was seeing. I can say with certainty that the fin rot has not progressed since last night. Her appetite remains iffy, and she does seem at times to be blind.
Since I drained probably 2/3 of the water, I felt obligated to hit the tank with a fresh pouch of Maracyn SW. So now I’m back on a morning dosing routine, which is not really where I wanted to be. (It’s easier to feed all day, do a water change in the evening, and then dose after the water change. Now, if I do a water change in the evening, I’m diluting overnight).
Well, water change, dosage of Fish Protector and Kent’s Vitamin C. Removal of GAC already. Turned off the BULB on the UV but not the flow – not sure if I can run UV while using Maracyn SW. Dosed with Maracyn SW. The only products carried by my local Petco are “Lifeguard” and “Maroxy”. Maracyn has been solid against this exact malady in the past when applied quickly (have seen this exactly same Fin Rot like this rampage through my Dragonette broodstock a few years back..it wasn’t pretty). I should also mention that Maracyn SW is noted as a valid treatment for fin rot. Anyone know the MARDEL company website? I want to email them some questions but I can’t even seem to find a good solid contact for them.
Let’s hope this at least stalls things. I am contemplating sequestering the Lightning Maroon back behind an eggcrate wall again – Dustin Dorton from ORA asked me about that as well this evening. And once again, thinking about removing the Lightning Maroon from this tank…he remains a typical healthy Maroon Clown. There is legitimate concern that leaving him in with her could cause more harm than good. Of course, I don’t like my options for alternate homes, and there is also the concern that removing him from her would cause him to become a her…
It’s funny how this all has taken precedence over any concerns about the known ongoing low-level issues with Cryptocaryon (ICH). I’m still debating whether I should push back down to 1.010 or even 1.009 as Joe Lichtenbert has suggested. I should point out that the better sources on Hyposalinity treatments do agree that the difference between 1.009 and even 1.010 might make the difference between successful treatment or not. Of course, you’re riding a fine line at 1.009 where fish death is a real possiblity (if you’re refractometer is even only slightly off).
So it’s been what, 2 full weeks now? Today, the maroons spent more of their day apart. This evening, I did another water change, shook off all the live rock (and thus rearranged it a bit), dosed with Fish Protector in the makeup water and Reef Plus shortly thereafter.
The female Maroon, as cited earlier, still had spots of Cryptocaryon (ICH) on her into the afternoon, but by night they’ve disappeared. I should mention that besides the obvious visual cues that it was ICH and not Velvet, there has not been heavy breathing nor a total loss of appetite, both classic symptoms of Marine Velvet (Amyloodinium) even when it’s not outwardly visible.
I “polled” the advisers and got early responses from Joe, Christine and Matthew C. about my ongoing ICH problem. I’m over simplifying their responses by a lot, but suffice it to say that if there were one word votes, it’d be 1 vote restore Hypo to 1.010 or even 1.009, and 2 votes for possible treatment with Cupramine (copper) to finally eradicate the problem. Obviously, if this continues to be a recurring problem it will have to be dealt with. I feel that the female Maroon has once again plateaued, albeit at a higher plateau than she was on before.
She has had less “spunk” today, not having tons of appetite by any stretch. Unless food was moving, either in the current or alive (as in Live Adult Brine Shrimp) she didn’t see interested. Honestly, I had my first suspicions that she might be blind now. Hard to say. Blindness can be temporary or permanent in clownfish and can be attributed to a variety of factors. There are times she seems blind, but then other times where she most certainly does not. So throw that on the pile as another of the never-ending list of problems that have plagued this female PNG Maroon since her arrival. Oh, that, and someone took a chunk out of her left pectoral fin today. The list of suspects is short. VERY SHORT. And happens to be covered in abberant white markings.
Behaviorally, the clowns were not as cuddly with each other today. They spent most of their time about 3-4″ apart. When I turned out the lights this evening, the female left her cave. The Lighting Maroon quivered for her numerous times, but she moved off to a different part of the tank. I didn’t stay to watch too much more, but suffice to to say that both fish seem to be roaming the tank more. This, combined with the “mystery bite” on the female’s fin might suggest that the “pair bond” isn’t all that, but then I look at my other clowns that don’t have anemone homes and they tend to rove around quite a bit. They aren’t always at each other’s side, but it’s very rare that they’re at opposite ends of the tank.
I think it’s really important to impress upon everyone how truly individual and dynamic a marine fish can be. They most certainly do have personalities and subtle behavioral cues. It pays to make yourself aware of those subtle changes in behavior. I certainly believe that some folks might read way too much into it, anthropomorphizing their fish (and going off the deep end in the process). However, if you can avoid that pitfall and be more objective about your fish, you may realize they will often give you clues when things aren’t quite right. I.e. I’m paying more close attention to the Female Maroon today and tomorrow in light of what seems to be a decreased interest in food and behavior that may imply some blindness or at least vision trouble. Hard to say where that’s stemming from, but it’s important to note general behavior every time you look as you’ll get tipped off when things may once again be going wrong.
Well, signing off for tonight, and hoping for a better tomorrow. Power of positive thought seems to work folks, so please do keep sending prayers, well wishes, good vibes and karma to the 20 gallon home of the PNG Ambassador and his wife
Last night I set up a batch of saltwater for an anticipated water change today. For those who don’t know, I basically run a 5 gallon “Homer Bucket” from Home Depot with a 25 watt Visitherm Stealth heater and a MaxiJet pump to mix the water. I fill it to a line I’ve marked, and from there, I know that it takes five half-cups (2.5 cups total) of Reef Crystals to bring up the water to 1.025. So, to make 1.010 water, I scoup out 2 half cups (1 cup total) and I’m good to go.
Well, I recently started using Seachem’s Reef Salt, and guess what? Apparently by volume it is more salty 2 half cups mixed up to closer to 1.013. So of course, I tested the Maroon Clown’s tank and it’s running closer to 1.012 right now. I’m guessing it didn’t get up there through evaporation, but through my recent water changes! Now, this raises the question – do I have an ICH problem on the female because the specific gravity rose up to 1.012? I honestly don’t know, I’ll have to ask the advisors about that.
And yes, there is still Cryptocaryon on the female Maroon Clownfish. Still not doing anything to directly treat it, but keeping an eye on her. She is still eating this morning.
So I did my 5 gallon water change, treating the water with Kordon’s Fish Protector. Will be dosing Vitamin C in a few minutes.
The “Stinkbomb”? Well, when doing the water change, I was sucking out uneaten food off the glass and I bumped into a Turbo snail shell that I thought was empty. NOPE. It was full of black goop…a dead Turbo Snail. VILE…it never left the water, went through the siphon hose and STILL the stench was unbelievable. I think I found the source of my cloudy water. WOW.
Water tests are still OK overall…today’s test showed no visible traces of Ammonia, and pH around 8.0. SG as mentioned prior was 1.012. I may leave it, or I may drop it back to 1.010.
The last thing I did today was note that officially ALL medications have run their courses of treatment. Yesterday was the last day of a 5 day treatment with Maracyn SW. So, today, a big bag of fresh GAC (granulated activated carbon) went into the filtration. A recent talk given at NERAC V by Ken Feldman really floored a lot of people as he put the science out there on GAC vs. Protein Skimming as it relates to DOC (Dissolved Organic Carbon). Bottom line, GAC is far more efficient and effective at removing more DOC from the water. DOC, in laymans terms, think “fish waste”. Or in my case, black slimy decaying Turbo snail leading to cloudy water. I will probably change out the carbon by the weekend for another fresh bag.
Another water change this evening. Tank is still running cloudy, but I’m being good about getting out all the uneaten food, even shaking out some live rock in the wastewater. Every little bit of waste removal helps.
The Female PNG Maroon was out swimming more this evening, and the Lightning Maroon was still sitting in the cave. Every once in a while he’d join her, or he’d go off exploring as well. The fish are starting to act more and more like my other clown pairs.
The female Maroon was still showing white spots (ICH), but overall doesn’t seem under much stress. I’ve had ICH show up occasionally in my reefs and haven’t ever gone crazy about it…generally with good husbandry and healthy fish it seems to just work out OK. Of course, I’m dealing with a Maroon Clown that may not have eaten for 2 weeks, so “healthy” isn’t necessarily applicable in this case. I believe if I see a worsening case, or if she starts refusing to eat again, I will probably kick off treatments with FW dips, even though that has debatable effect. Of course, still frustrated that I’m seeing this considering my ongoing use of hyposaline conditions.
Going to do a water test at some point, maybe tonight yet (will update this post if I do). It’s nice that I can start to think ahead now. I can think about long term housing for the pair. A pair of fish this unique definitely deserves to be a showpiece, not stuck in the basement hatchery with all the other broodstock. But my planned 92 corner for the new house is probably not up for consideration (it’s open top, destined to be a SPS tank full of angels of course…). I welcome suggestions on showpiece housing, even though I have no way of affording it (the 92 project was a tank given to me, and I’ve been buying parts for it piece by piece for a year+ now). Still, one can dream, right?
The short story – yesterday the fish got fed a few times. I’ve realized that most food blows by the female, so I’m now in the position of having to turn off the filtration so she eats. This has the positive side that if I leave the water pump off for a bit, I could come back later and siphon off uneaten food (only the male is willing to eat food off the bottom glass).
Last night, they got another 5 gallon water change. Today, I started off by feeding a couple times, and now at lunch, another 5 gallon water change with Fish Protector in the makup, and then the dose of Maracyn. Also hitting the tank with the daily dose of Kent’s Vitamin C product.
The sad news is that the female, while she continues to eat, has another clear cut case of Cryptocaryon (ICH). Nothing “serious” (as indicated by the fact that she’s still eating) but seriously, with almost 2 weeks of Hyposalinity and solid Formalin treatments, I should not be continuing to deal with ICH. This may be a case where I have to “keep an eye on it”, maybe go for FW dips, or maybe wait it out for another week and then bring up the salinity and hit the tank with Cupramine. In the meantime, so long as the fish continues to eat, things should go OK. I’ve been soaking all their food with Seachem’s Garlic Guard, which is thought may help keep parasites out of the gills (key word there is THOUGHT, not “proven”).
In a nuthshell, the FW dip + Formalin did not really seem to go over well. The Maroon Female is under the live rock, wedged in, breathing unhappily and rapidly. Frankly though, I’ve seen MUCH WORSE LOOKING fish (see my posts about the Saddleback…of course, it did die within hours later).
What I’ve seen develop over the past few hours is slime coat and what looks to me like Velvet (Amyloodinium). I’ve seen it before, many times over, as I found Amphiprion allardi particularly susceptible to it. I know we had Brooklynella early on, then there were the Spots of Cryptocaryon, and now this. Sure, I’m not 100% sure it is, but seriously…I dip the fish with Formalin and FW, and within 2 hours I have a nice dusting of tiny white spots on the fish? What else could I be seeing?
Well, I’m making plans to abandon their tank potentially. Can’t risk a Cupramine + Formalin interaction. I took a fallow larval tank down, filled it about 50% with water from my Onyx Perc’s reef, 50% new tapwater. It tested out around 1.014 (my percentages aren’t exact). I’m letting it just sit there. Depending on how the female Maroon looks in the morning (if she is even still alive) I may follow through with my earlier outlined plans and treat her with Cupramine. Honestly, this is somewhat ridiculous to be dealing with still.
My plans for the Lighting Maroon? I have 3 options. #1. Leave him in the 20 gallon QT tank since he’s doing OK there despite the Female’s ongoing troubles. #2. Ignore that there is another clearly sick fish in the tank, and treat him as if he’s been through a short QT and come out OK. That means #3a – placing him in a net breeder in my SPS tank with a RBTA (Red Bubble Tip Anemone) or relocating our spawning pair of Black Ocellaris and giving the Lightning Maroon a dedicated 6 gallon reef with a massive RBTA and a bunch of mushrooms. Both tanks are very solid. Both have good and bad things associated with them.
Frankly, I’m frustrated, because the 20 L was solid, had been broken in for months and was going to be an ideal home for the pair. I’ve ended up ravaging it with Hyposalinity and Formalin, and even after all that I’m stuck with sick fish? If I have to abandon this tank and leave it fallow, I’m technically without a good dedicated home for a Maroon pair at the moment. That’s a setback. “GRR”
So, in a situation like this, I think it is INACTION that generally “seals the deal” as it were. Leave a fish that’s lost its desire to swim lying on the bottom wedged under the live rock and that fish will be somewhere, dead, by morning. That’s my general prognosis. Which is why inaction is not an option. I’d rather kill the fish by trying to save it than sit back and just let it die.
Water Params in the QT Tank
Water tests came back normal…pH maybe slightly low at 8.0 but nothing alarming at all…all my reefs like to run at 8.0 most of the time. Ammonia maybe a trace, but certainly below 0.25 ppm. Nitrite and Nitrate undetectable. SG 1.010 or every so slightly higher. This, combined with the outwardly healthy and happy Lightning Maroon clownfish is an important indication that there aren’t environmental problems.
Can’t be the water…
So what is it then? Tank has had low level Formalin treatments, and I’ve followed a strict regime of Formalin dips. Tank has been at hyposaline conditions for several days, which may not outright affect a cure of any disease, but certainly should not hurt and likely has helped (I may have said it before…it could just as easily be that both fish would be dead were it NOT for hypo…we just don’t know). We’ve seen signs of Brooklynella, but certainly not the rampant infestation that takes fish down quickly. Likely I kept that at bay. There has also been Cryptocaryon. Nothing serious, certainly not to the levels where a fatality would result.
We have pretty good water parameters overall, so that’s not been a source of problems. Even got a protein skimmer going and yes, the Seaclone is pulling out foam, even at 1.010. So much for “not working” like some folks out there will tell you. Yet still, in the last 24-48 hours I have noticed elevated repiration on the Maroon Clown, and this evening, a fish on the bottom, clearly stressed. Honestly, without visual cues, the only thing that is really coming to mind is Amyloodinium, which I’ve seen before and can totally take a fish down fast. Could it be that in a week alone I may have seen all three diseases on the female Maroon?
Making Educated Guesses
Well, anything is possible. It could also be that the fish is now succumbing to starvation, secondary bacterial infections, organ failure, or even has just given up the will to live. All of those are possible.
I have to operate under the following assumptions.
1. I could STILL be facing an infection with Brooklynella.
2. I could be facing an Amyloodinium problem now.
Since neither can be comfortably ruled out at the moment, I had to think this through carefully.
Medication options for Amyloodinium vs. Brooklynella
As I’ve alluded to prior, Amyloodinium may or may not be treatable with Formalin – the literature on the subject varies, and genuinely, it is a 50/50 split. Brooklynella however, is universally cited as treatable with Formalin. Conversely, the other generally accepted treatment for parasites like these is Copper. I’m a fan of Cupramine. Seachem’s Cupramine cannot be used with Formalin – it will create a toxic substance that would probably just kill everything. Cupramine also may cause problems at hyposaline levels. No details provided, it’s a “try it at your own risk”. That said, if I was convinced I was dealing with Amyloodinium at this point, changing course to Cupramine would be a very necessary step, because Cupramine is highly effective against Amyloodinium in my experience, but only if applied early on. The other problem, Copper does nothing for Brooklynella…at least 90% of sources tend to agree on that.
If I thought (or was convinced) it was Amyloodinium?
So for the benefit of argument, what would I do if I gambled and changed to Cupramine? Well, the bottom line is any fish that’s going to be treated with Cupramine needs to be removed to another tank, because I can’t clear out the Formalin with any great level of certainty. Not worth risking a toxic cocktail. This also means possibly “rinsing” the fish as one person suggested in a comment thread. I do concur…that would be a wise precaution, and wouldn’t be that difficult to accomplish. The next thing to do would be to bring up the salinity, as the toxicity of Cupramine should decrease as that salinity goes up (a side note, we’ve also bantied about the use of an anemone as a therapeutic agent in the last 24 hours, which also would’ve required a rapid salinity change to accomplish). Some of the advisers have suggested raising salinity could in fact be done rather quickly, but their frame of reference has been largely to compare to captive bred fish. I did however, pick up good literature-based clues on the subject.
The first clue on rapid salinity rises comes from Matt Wittenrich’s suggested course of action for treating Cryptocaryon on page 161 of his Breeder’s Guide. The “jist” is that you drop SG to 1.015, and after two days, do a large water change (presumeably with full strength saltwater). But that’s not really specific. The more “detailed” clue comes from Joyce Wilkerson’s highly detailed protocol for Amyloodinium treatment on page 114 of her Clownfish Book. Again, to give only the “jist” (please see the reference for full details), drop SG to 1.010/1.012. Day 3, add copper and bring SG up to 1.018. But, “Take a day or more to bring up the specific gravity”. I’ve always worked under the assumption of no more than a 0.002 rise per day was adviseable, but this advise advoceates a rise of up to 0.008 in only 24 hours, 4X that of my assumption. Since I’m a young guy who sometimes want’s more than only the solid, highly experienced sage advice of my elders, I realized that perhaps the real kicker is something sitting in the back of my mind. Most of the bags in the Blue Zoo Aquatics shipment tested out at specific gravities around 1.019/1.020. Yet I pushed both a Cleaner Wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus) and a Harlequin Filefish (Oxymonacanthus longirostris) up to 1.025/1.026 in my reef on only a 1 hour drip. That RATE would equate to 0.120 difference over 24 hours. 60X faster than my base rate, and 15 times faster than even Wilkerson’s literature suggested to do. And I had NO PROBLEMS there.
Of course, the best example I can think of goes back to when I was 10 years old. I was breeding mollies and had my first saltwater tank. I would ROUTINELY net out my Sailfin Mollies and give them “excursions” in the saltwater tank for a day. No acclimation of any kind, just dropping them in. Now of course, I do not advocate this at all. And healthy Mollies are not the same as distressed Clownfish. But it’s just one more annecdotal experience that my preconceived notions might be ill-concieved or perhaps overly-cautious. It is clear that fish can and do withstand far more rapid rises.
So, with all that said, if I get to a point at any time where I think I need to switch to a copper-treatment for this Female Maroon, the course of action is clear. Rinse her with water from one of my broodstock reefs really quickly, and then move her to a 10 gallon tank that is set up with 5 gallons of diluted saltwater (probably from a broodstock tank). Bring the salinity up from 1.010 to 1.018, while dosing with Cupramine. That would be the way to affect a change.
However, I am not at that point yet, and I think that honestly, the time to switch would’ve been before the fish was trying to wedge itself under the live rock.
So what DID I DO?
One of the things routinely cited for treatment of both Amyloodinium AND Brooklynella is a Freshwater Dip. The FW dip is said to knock off the parasites in the case of Amyloodinium, and for anyone who’s not familiar with Amyloodinium, it can kill a fish by completely coating the gills and you may never even see it on the fish’s skin (one of the main reasons I have suspicions I’m dealing with a case of Amyloodinium now – heavy respiration, stress, and yet no think mucus – generally I’ve only seen the actual cysts on a fish when it’s commonly past the point of no return because I left the fish in the reef too long).
Formalin dips have also been good so far. Every time I did a dip, the fish always seemed “better”. Dosing the tank with Formalin this last time appeared to make things “better” as well. So I’m not about to just outright abandon this medication at this point. Especially since if I am still dealing with Brooklynella, it is THE medication to use. Amyloodnium? The jury is out, but enough people suggest it that there must be some basis for it.
The decision was to combine treatments. I admittedly have no basis for this other than the fish is now clearly on the decline and drastic steps are needed. If it’s Amyloodinium and Formalin isn’t fixing it, perhaps the FW DIP will help alleviate the stress, clear up the gills, and buy me some tmie. If Formalin IS doing the trick, why cut it out? Admittedly, I have no clue if there’s a basis for this dual purpose dip.
I had thought about doing a FW DIP with Methelyne Blue (which helps deliver Oxygen during the dip and is a often recommended practice). However, in the back of my head, I hadn’t researched it. I didn’t know how MB and Formalin would interact, and didn’t want to inadvertently cause some other problem when a fish, dipped in MB, was returned to the main tank. I have to research this more. There are potential merits.
The net result of my thinking was to use the dosage for a Formalin dip at 20 drops per gallon in a Freshwater dip to last anywhere from 5-15 minutes as tolerated (I think in the past I’ve gone even longer, but generally shorter FW dips are suggested).
Prepping the FW Dip
For anyone who’s never done a FW dip, it is not scary. I don’t have RO DI here unless I buy it, so I had to use good ole tap water. Matched the temperature coming out of the tap with the tank temp, and them measured out 1 gallon. Dechlorinated it with Seachem’s Prime. Then checked the pH..
First pH Test, QT tank sample on left, FW Dip water on right.
The results of this first test showed that the FW from the tap (right sample) was just slightly lower than the tank’s pH. A very small dusting of Seachem’s Reef Buffer was added to the dip water, swirled and aerated for a minute. I took another test.
They are now very close, close enough in my opinion, with the FW maybe ever so slightly elevated. But you can barely tell at all. Once the pH was matched, the FW dip was “good to go.
But, as I mentioned, I opted to combine FW with Formalin. While I completed the requisite 3 dip treatment already, if I was continuing on an “every other day” Foramlin dip regime, today would’ve been the day. So 20 drops of Formalin were added to the FW dip water.
The FW + Formalin Dip
Being aware of timing on a dip is critical. Not freaking out is also critical. So, first things first, get the female Maroon out of the tank and into the dip.
Into the bucket she goes...
She goes stiff as a board for a minute, all curled up...
Next, look at the time it is and SET AN ALARM for 10 minutes.
And now observe the fish’s behavior. No better way to convey this than video! This first video was maybe 3-4 minutes in. This is basically how the fish has been acting in the main tank since I found it this evening.
Watch, this was around the 9 minute mark…you’ll hear the alarm go off towards the end. Note how the fish makes a couple mad dashes in the bucket, and then just goes listless again. This IS the erratic behavior I mentioned earlier. The “mad dash” and then nothing.
Shortly after this vid, around 12 minutes, I felt the fish had “had enough” and returned it to the main tank. It promptly dashed around the tank and wedged itself under live rock again. But, when I left to come upstairs to document all of this, the fish was looking a tiny bit better, at least now sitting rightside up in the cave, clearly still very stressed.
EDIT – almost forgot – capped off the work with a 5 gallon water change and a full dosing of Kordon’s Fish Protector. Dosed 5 drops of Formalin as well to make up for the removed water.
But What About the Lightning Maroon?
Yeah, this IS a blog about that awesome little fish, right? Well, Edgar Diaz of AZ was the only one quick enough with the email trigger to shoot me any thoughts on my predicament this evening. He made but one suggestion in response to my many questions. To paraphrase, “Dip the female. Not the male. Female is replaceable. Male isn’t”.
It’s also come to my attention that Jake Adam’s little April 1st prank on Reef Builders STILL has a lot of people thinking that this entire fish is a myth, a photoshop job (or rather several extremely good photoshop jobs). Well, Jake has been all over me wanting dibs on the first HQ Video of the Lighting Maroon. Well Jake, it ain’t HD, it ain’t HQ, and it ain’t on Reef Builders. It’s a tease. Just enough of a tease to let everyone in the world know that this fish isn’t fabricated (unless I am now the ultimate Adobe After Effects guru, at which point you should just all bow down before me…)
This morning, both fish showed signs of improvement. I was patting myself on the back for deciding to dose Formalin to the tank at the 1 drop per gallon rate. I didn’t say anything because I didn’t want to jinx anything.
The Lightning Maroon is doing well. Today, all day, I can finally say that it has started to behave like a typical clownfish. Playful, energetic yet still timid and nervous. Eating well, and eating anything I offer.
This evening, after being gone for a couple hours, I returned to find this:
the female PNG Maroon...
OK, what exactly is supposed to go through my head at this point? Seriously. Are you KIDDING me? I honestly thought the fish was dead or wedged in and unable to get out (and dead). I started taking live rock out and she bolted out and up into the water column, fully erect and alert. And then she went and laid down behind some other rock. And then bolted around the tank. And then laid down again. There is nothing outward visibly wrong with her in any way, except for rapid breathing and erratic behavior (and the fact that she has not eaten in a week or longer now).
CLEARLY the female is still having issues, and this is definitely not going in the direction I want. I need to reevaluate what I’m doing and I’ll need to do so tonight. I’ll post up what I decide to do when I’ve done so.
I need to pass along quick thanks to my trusted group of advisers. They include Joe Lichtenbert of RPI, Edgar Diaz of Addy-Zone, Mark Martin @ Blue Zoo Aquatics, Dustin Dorton @ ORA, Matthew Carberry @ Sustainable Aquatics and Christine Williams. They have all been valuable contributors and have given me LOTS to think about. No doubt the amount of emails flying back and forth is staggering for them. THANK YOU for putting up with all of it guys, I hope you feel some ownership over this project. Remember, I feel that this isn’t MY project, but “everyone’s”.
It is perhaps interesting, if not comforting, to know that between 6 highly-qualified & experienced aquarists, each one has had suggestions or advice as unique as they are themselves. I will say the general consensus has been to stick with Hyposalinity and minimize stress (to not make any sudden changes). The change in the female’s condition may nullify some or all of that advice, but it’s hard to say.